Monday, November 30, 2015

Macrame Hanging Planters in 30 Minutes!

– Jersey Knit Fabric
– Ceramic Planter
– Tape Measure
– Hook Screw
– Scissors

1. Cut your fabric length-wise into 8 total 1.5-inch strips.
2. Then stretch each fabric strip into round cords.
3. Tie all 8 cords together in one big knot, about 4 inches or so from the ends, and pull tight to secure.
4. Group your cords into 4 sets of 2 and tie a knot in each set, approximately 2 inches away.
5. Now separate these sets into new sets of 2 and tie them together approximately 1.5 inches away.
6. Repeat for a third time and tie each new set of cords together 1.5 inches away from the previous.
7. Stretch over your planter and tighten your knots to adjust.
8. Tie all 8 cords together at the top to finish.
9. Plant a succulent or two in your planter and hang up using a hook screw.

 Less than 10 steps to these swinging’ beauties? Lets get cracking.

 Grab a pair of sharp scissors and lay out your jersey fabric on a clean, flat surface.

 Cut 1.5-inch strips lengthwise across your whole piece of fabric. Keep cutting equal strips until you have 8 total.

 Your strips don’t have to be perfect here because the edges are going to roll inwards.

 Go ahead and stretch out all those strips! Don’t forget to stretch out the ends as well.

 Now that you’ve made 8 jersey cords its time to get knotty with it ;)

 Grab all your cords at one end and tie a big knot securing them all together. Pull this knot as tight as you can, as it’s going to be supporting the weight of the whole planter.

 Separate your cords into 4 sets of 2, and tie a knot in each set at approximately 2 inches away from your large center knot.

 We suggest not tightening these all the way yet, so that you have some room to adjust them when you add in the ceramic planter.

 Separate your cords into new sets of 2 that attach in the middle to form a diamond. Tie all 4 of these second-tier knots approximately 1.5 inches away from the previous knots. Don’t quite tighten these all the way so you can adjust them later.

 Repeat this step once more for the third tier of knots, also tied approximately 1.5 inches from the previous knots.

 When you’re done it should look like this – with a large knot at the bottom and three tiers of small knots.

 Stretch your macrame hanger over the ceramic planter bowl and grab all your cords at the top. Take the time here to adjust and tighten all your knots so that the three tiers sit at the bottom edge, middle, and top edge of the bowl.

 Hold your cords straight and tie a knot at the top end, making sure that each set of cords is even and that the planter hangs straight. Then tighten this knot as hard as you can to secure.

 We’ve included a large hook screw in our kit, but make sure to check what tools and hardware you may need for your specific type of ceiling before hanging.

 Fill up your planter with potting soil and a few plants and you’re good to go! Succulents work well for these planters as their roots grow fairly shallow.

Basic Socks on 12 inch circular needle: A sock miracle!

Size: Ladies medium
~300 yards fingerling weight sock yarn, pictured here is Opal sock yarn in colour 625, Winterbild
~US size 1 circular needle, 12 inch
~set of three US size 1 double pointed needles
32 stitches and 40 rows = 4 inches square in St St
Cast on:
Using the 12inch circular needle, cast on 60 stitches, join in the round.
Work one inch of k1 p1 ribbing, or whatever cuff you love.
Work in stockinette stitch, or whatever stitch you love for about 7 inches. So easy!!! Just knit continuously in the round. No worries about laddering, no need to fiddle.
The heel is worked over 30 stitches, the other 30 just stay on your needle while you do this.
~ K15 stitches, turn.
~ purl across 30 stitches, turn
Row 1 ~ *slip 1, knit 1* repeat from * to * across 30 stitches
Row 2 ~ slip 1, purl across
Repeat rows 1 and 2 for 30 rows.
Turn the heel:
OMG! I love this part!!
~ knit across 17 stitches, ssk, knit 1, turn
~ slip 1, purl 5, p2tog, purl 1, turn
Row 1 ~ slip 1, knit to one stitch before gap, ssk, knit 1, turn
Row 2 ~ slip 1, purl to one stitch before gap, p2tog, purl 1, turn
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until you have worked all heel stitches, 18 stitches remain.
OMG! I hate doing this row. Soldier through it!
1. Knit 18 stitches
2. Take a breath and pick up the 15 long stitches along the side of the heel flap.
3. Pick up one extra stitch, by knitting an extra stitch in the row just below the heel flap. Place a marker.
4. Knit the 30 stitches of the instep. These are the 30 stitches that have been patiently waiting on you needle since before the heel.
5. Place another marker, pick up an extra stitch.
6. Take another breath, or maybe a sip of wine, and pick up the 15 long stitches along the other side of the heel flap.
7. Place a different colored marker to mark the beginning of the round.
Gusset Decreases:
Row 1 – Knit to 2 stitches before first marker, k2tog, Slip marker. Knit to the next marker, slip marker, SSK.
Row 2 – knit  all stitches
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until 60 stitches remain. TA DA!
Slip marker, Knit, removing the other two markers as you come to them. Continuing knitting until foot is two inches less than the desired total foot length.
Now you have to abandon the beloved 12inch circular. Sorry. But I have worked out how to finish with 3 double points, not 5.
Set up on two double points, 30 stitches on each needle:
Knit 15, place marker to mark centre of heel, knit 15
Using a second double point, knit 30.
It will look like this:
Row 1 ~ Using the third needle, knit 1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches from end of first needle, k2tog, knit one
Turn your work around, and knit now off the second needle,
Knit 1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches from end of second needle, k2tog, knit one.
When you move from one needle to the next, be sure to give the yarn a good tug to keep things tight, this is critical!
Row 2 ~ knit all stitches on first needle, turn work, knit all stitches on second needle
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until 30 stitches remain.
Repeat Row 1 until 16 stitches remain.
Cut yarn and graft toe with Kitchener stitch.

Pom Pom Chicks

Here's a little step by step to making a pom pom fluffy chick.
Step 1: Make two pom poms, one slightly larger than the other. I've used the Clover Pom Pom Maker gadgets. They make whipping up pom poms
very quick and easy. When you tie around the centre of the pom poms, do not cut the wool ties off

 Step 2: Separate the wool ties, matching one tie from one pom pom with a wool tie from the other pom pom. Repeat with the other ties.

 Step 3: Tie the pom poms together, pulling the wool ties tight so the pom poms sit very closely to each other.

Step 4: Add a beak and eyes to the face of the chick. 

Thanks to living on the crafty side for the tutorial

Braided Rug Tutorial: Recycling old towels

You will need three bath towels for an average size rug

Fold each towel in half and cut into 1.5 in strips. 

 I am sure many of you are saying "where is her rotary cutter?"  I don't have one so I did this old school.

 Once everything is cut I sewed 3 strips, one of each color together.

Then get those fingers warmed up because there was A LOT of braiding going on.  I folded the raw edges to the inside to minimize fraying.

 After you braid one set of strips you sew on another.  and another ...and another Until you have a giant long braided rope of towels.

  twist the center and wrap it around then hand stitched the rows into place.

 stitch it all together on the back with a heavy duty needle and some thread and then your are finished.

These rugs work well in bathrooms and kitchens or of course on tiled floors and can be pretty much made into any shape you desire

Flannel Receiving Blankets

Insert hook through the same hole, for a third time. Make a single crochet.





To make one 41-inch by 41-inch blanket:


Cut and Wind



Cut the fabric into a 42-inch by 42-inch square.
Wind the yarn into a ball. Place it to the side for now.

Pin and Sew



Fold and press each edge of the fabric 1/4-inch toward the wrong side. Fold and press each edge 1/4-inch toward the wrong side once more. Pin the folds in place and machine sew down with an edge stitch.

Crochet the Edge




Orient the fabric so the front is facing you and the stripes are vertical.
Begin approximately 1 inch from a corner. Insert hook just below the hemmed edge, into the middle of a stripe. Pull a loop through. Grab the yarn from the back and pull it through the loop you just made.


Insert hook back through the same hole, and make a single crochet along the edge of the fabric.
*Chain one.

 Insert hook into the next stripe, and make a single crochet.


 Insert hook back through the same hole, and make a single crochet


Insert hook through the same hole, for a third time. Make a single crochet.

 Repeat from * until you reach the corner.

Turn the Corner



After you’ve made a cluster of single crochets right before  the corner, chain 3 (rather than 1). For the next stitch (the first of the new side), insert the hook into the last hold you made, as pictured above.
Now that you have turned the corner, you no longer has stripes to guide your placement. You can mark the fabric every 1/4 to 5/8-inch
Continue around the 2nd, 3rd and 4th edge of the blanket, turn the 4th corner and work up to the stripe where you first began.

Connect at the End



Chain one.
Insert hook into the first stripe, where you began, and make a single crochet.
Cut yarn and pull through. Using a tapestry needle, weave in your ends.

You have done it!
Now you can do it again to make a pair!!!

Thanks to pearl Soho for  the tutorial


double needle thread hack

I don’t have a lot of experience with a double needle. If you do, you probably know how great they can be when it comes to making double...